Friday, May 23, 2008

Day 4

Between Amarillo and the Texas/New Mexico border I noticed a lot of fans. Well, not fans, windmills. It reminded me of the Netherlands. Except that these were white and the Netherlands had big orange ones. I’m glad Texas is trying to invest in other sources of energy besides simply oil.

I saw a tumbleweed today. And also real cowboys. The tumbleweed crossed the interstate in front of me. I couldn’t help but laugh. Then, a bit later, I see an animal running in a field near me. As I got closer I realized there were several of them and they were cows. Why would a cow run?, I thought. Because 2 men on horses made them. Cowboys. Right on. There were also a lot of ranches in both Texas and New Mexico. I suppose that’s not surprising, but as I’ve said before, I’ve seen these places on TV, I know that they exist, but they have just never existed as concretely in my mind as they do now.

Overall it was a fairly boring drive. The last long one by myself though. I hit 2000 miles at some point. Tomorrow I’m driving alone, but only to Breckenridge and then to Denver. So less than 4 hours total. No biggie at this point. I did decide to take the long way and go into New Mexico far enough to see Santa Fe. Thankfully, New Mexico was prettier than Texas, but not near the Texas border. Santa Fe seemed like a pretty cool town but I just can’t imagine living in quasi-desert conditions. Seems nuts to me. I’m amazed we even have non-admitted immigrants from Mexico because I don’t think I’d be willing to walk across that part of the country. And if I saw it, I’d turn around. But I suppose Mexico is pretty dry too, so maybe New Mexico is actually an improvement. Scary thought.

I stopped for lunch in Santa Fe at this little burger joint. It was pretty good except they forgot to take off the onions. It was actually really chilly there. Very windy all day and probably in the low 60s. And I had thought that would be my hot day. Guess not.

I continued on 25 North until Colorado Springs. Drove through such towns as Las Vegas NM and Pueblo CO. There was one little mountain-y area on my way in, but other than that, pretty flat drive. The best part was that there were these hills covered in dark trees to my right that were too small to be called mountains, but they were huge hills. Well, every now and then I’d catch a glimpse of a craggy peak in the distance with a snow on it. I actually gasped when I first saw it. So incredibly gorgeous. Another part that I thought was funny is that there was a sign for roadwork and it read "Road damage ahead" And then shuffled us across the median to occupy the opposite direction's left lane and scoot along there at a snail's pace. Well, here's the picture of the "road damage." The road wasn't damaged, it just wasn't there!

As I drove into Colorado Springs—a pristine town at the foot of the mountains—I wished that I was going into the mountains already, but a few more hours and I’ll be doing just that. I am staying at a really nice hotel, but I’m convinced they gave me the shitty room because I have an awful view and several things don’t work around here. I found a Thai takeout place in the phonebook and went to get my food from the hole in the wall. Usually those places are pretty good and this one was no exception, but their near complete lack of patrons at 7:30 was worrisome. Nevertheless, my panang chicken curry was pretty damn good. I don’t think you can really eff that up. I’ve never had bad chicken curry from a thai place before unless it is too spicy to eat.

Tomorrow, I’m heading up to Breckenridge to see a friend and eat lunch. Then I’m off to Denver to hang out w/ Cory for a few hours before Jon gets here at 11pm. Plus! I get to drive through the mountains all day!

Day 3

Woke up early again, showered, then went to Sonic. Got a breakfast bistro sandwich, which was alright, but not stellar. Then dropped Liz off work. I had such a wonderful time. I drove back through campus, filled up the tank, and headed for Tulsa. Like my drive in, the drive out was beautiful. The Ozarks are amazing. I got to Tulsa without incident and promptly stopped by Oral Roberts University because my dad went to his first year of dental school there and my mom was with him, working at the hospital. ORU was terribly tacky. Lots of gold buildings. It looks like aliens landed and tried to set up a village. I walked around for a few minutes so I could grab pictures of the most aesthetically offensive buildings and then back to my car to plan a scenic drive through west Oklahoma.

I guess I drove through Oklahoma City, but didn’t see any of it really, so I don’t think it really counts. I got gas in it, I think. Speaking of, though, it’s the end of Day 3 as I write this, and I have only spent $250 on gas thus far. I’ve gone I think about 1600 miles. This was NOT the summer to pick to do this, but in (quasi-)retrospect, I wish I’d done this long ago. Or maybe I’m doing it at the right time. I am loving being by myself and about the time I get bored, Jon will joining me, so it’s good. Therapeutic even, but certainly not bad. The only thing that sucks is that by the end of the day, my lower back hurts. Lumbar area. Although, now that I say that, today was my longest driving day thus far and it didn’t hurt, but that’s probably b/c I took 2 Tylenol in the morning before I started out specifically to address that problem.

After OK city, I started looking for a Popeye’s which I still haven’t found. There have been a few, but I’ve missed them. (as an aside…I’m watching the local Amarillo news, which is just terrible and they can’t get any of their audio feeds to work. This guy is floundering. He’ll never be as bad as the “boom goes the dynamite” guy –if you don’t know what that is, search that term in youtube—but he’s bad. It’s not his fault. His tech crew is terrible.) Maybe Popeye’s is for tomorrow.

So then I drove down 44 to Clayton, OK and then went into my scenic route. A lot of up and down hills, but straight roads. Through the country side. Very few cars. Not many buildings. It was pretty incredible. I’ve found throughout my travels that there are certain moments when everything becomes clear and life seems simple because no one knows where you are or what you’re doing. It is an almost indescribable feeling. I think it’s just the euphoria of being completely free. I attained it in Europe last summer and I have throughout this trip. I’ve kept some people up to date as to my geographical location, but today I was truly free. No one knew where I was. And where I was is some two lane road with nothing around. Speed limit is 70, so it’s fast, especially for a 2 lane road with no shoulder. So I’ve got the speed and of course, the windows must come down. Then the Garth Brooks begins. I put it on solely because Garth is from Yukon, OK, which I had passed through an hour before. So country music blasting, windows down, sunroof open, hair amuck, country roads, and no one knows where the hell I am. Actually, at one point, I had to take a detour b/c the “bridge is out.” So there was a point where even I didn’t know where I was. I have to say, it’s a nearly religious experience. I love people and I love my friends, but I also really love being all alone and going on adventures. Even if they aren’t that exciting to the normal person. Sometimes I think I need therapy, but really the best therapy for me, personally, is to escape to complete freedom and anonymity. Temporarily of course. I can’t wait to see friends again on Friday, but just for those few minutes/hours/days, it’s really therapeutic , for me at least.

So that was my spiritual experience in west Oklahoma. I headed into Texas and things got flat quick. I drove through some very tiny towns with signs that said “Welcome to Allison” and “Welcome to Panhandle”; some of which even included the local high school’s list of state football championships. I watch “Friday Night Lights” so I get it. West Texas. Crazy about high school football.

I think that’s a recurring theme about this trip. I’ve seen many of these places in tv shows and movies…unfortunately, most notably, horror movies…but I never really believed that places like this existed. Or if they did, I never imagined I’d be there. I’m an east coast girl with a strong curiosity about the west coast…but everything in between? Never really gave it much thought. I drove through a lot of dilapidated towns and I don’t know how long they’ve been like that, but they just seemed like victims of our failing economy. The agricultural/farming industry is obviously struggling and it is very evident in the empty farm towns that once bustled.

After my drive through west Oklahoma and the “top hat of Texas” (as I’ve decided to call it), I arrived in Amarillo. I stayed at a nice hotel, but Amarillo itself is not nice. Not that I saw. Just the typical chain restaurants/gas stations/whatever. Speaking of gas stations though, it was the first time I paid over $4 for gas. In Texas of all places! Don’t they have oil? Shouldn’t it be cheaper there than anywhere else in the country? I’m not really sure, but it didn’t seem right.

Thursday, May 22, 2008

Day 2

None of my thoughts on the road seem nearly as relevant as when I’m first thinking them on the road. By the time I get to this point, I’ve forgotten most of them. However, a few things caught my eye that I do remember. Somewhere between Nashville and Memphis (not a fabulous drive, although not terrible), I came across a state park sign in the official brown and white that read “Nathan Bedford Forrest State Park”…yes, Nathan Bedford Forrest. I’m ashamed to say that I recognized the name from Forrest Gump. I believe that’s who he’s named after. In the history of Gump’s name, his namesake is the first grand wizard of the kkk. Which I will not even capitalize because it’s not worth capitalization. But in any case, I was shocked that the state of Tennessee would memorialize such a son of a bitch. Ugh. Minus 50 points, Tennessee.

I had high hopes for Memphis. I wanted to see Graceland. Not because I really care much about Elvis, but I thought it’d be cool. Turns out it’s a total tourist trap for which I am too cheap. I paid $8 for parking, went in, and it was about $28 for the cheapest tour. Bullshit. Minus some more points. Like I said, I don’t care that much about Elvis. So I went to the giftshop instead and bought some tacky Graceland shit and then went on my merry way.

So then I had a second mission in Memphis: BBQ. I’ve heard of Memphis Style. Bobby Flay and the Food Network’s BBQ week have alerted me. So I set off to find some. I settled on Jim Nealy’s Famous Interstate BBQ. Plugged it into the GPS and located that delicious restaurant. I got a chopped BBQ sandwich and a sweet tea. Seemed appropriate. And perfect. It was both. It’s more like Western NC BBQ than Eastern, b/c it’s definitely ketchup based. Having grown up in western NC, I almost feel like a traitor saying I enjoy vinegar based BBQ better. But there it is: I like vinegar based BBQ better. In any case, this was not that. But it was super good. I forgot to ask for no slaw, because if you have grown up around BBQ you know that slaw automatically comes on BBQ sandwiches. But I forgot. And even though it may disqualify me from being a true “southern girl,” I don’t like anything cabbage related, thus, coleslaw = gross. However, the BBQ at this place was more than good enough to account for the (thankfully small) amount of coleslaw. So wow, that’s a lot about BBQ, but dammit. I love BBQ. 10 points, Tennessee.

After my BBQ excursion, I hopped back on 40 to head across the Mississippi. I had no idea how close Memphis and the Mississippi are to one another. I really wanted to get out at the River and take a picture, because, wow! , it’s the biggest river in the country. But, alas, that was not to be. I crossed it, but the bridge’s walls were too high and I was on a big interstate (I-40) so no place to get out before or after. Next time I cross the Ole Miss, I’ll find a small bridge and take pictures. August, I suppose. In any case, here's a super fantastic exciting picture of the bridge over the river since it was all I could get.

As soon as I got into Arkansas, I realized it was beautiful. There were some pretty flat lands around the river, but as you got further inland, there were more rolling hills and just fields and trees. This picture is near the river and I did not intentionally take a picture with a truck in it, much less a Wal-Mart truck...but there it is: Pretty land w/ Wal-Mart mucking up the scenery -- Arkansas in a nutshell. I also saw some of the Ozarks and I really just can’t do them justice in trying to describe them. They are small mountains. Way smaller than the Apps, but they are so pretty. I like that they aren’t completely covered by trees like the Apps are. It actually reminded me of Ireland. So very green and beautiful. So I rode 40 all the way through AK except for the last bit where I hopped in 540 N to Fayetteville.

There are two parts of Fayetteville, Arkansas. First of all, I should say that Bentonville, which is the headquarters of Wal-Mart is directly north (about 30 min) of Fayetteville. So the northern side of Fayetteville is ugly. Full of chain restaurants/stores/fastfood. Boring. It could be any town in the US. However, the redeeming factor is southern Fayetteville. It reminded me of Asheville or Carrboro. Very socially aware and environmentally friendly. Full of hippies and cool kids. Lots of trees and bikes and people actually walk. It’s amazing. If it weren’t for its geographical location in the US, I’d love to live there. No close cities worth going to.

It was wonderful to see Liz again. We have known each other for 10 years now and that’s a LooooooooNG time. Her and I caught up on all the people we know in common, which considering involves all of hickory and UNC, we get a little busy. We traded fun stories about our lives in the 2 years since we’ve lived with one another and generally caught up on life. I didn’t realize how much I missed her until I got there. I really wish I had a few more days there to see everything that there is to see. I did get to go Sonic for the first time though. I had a strawberry real fruit slush and loved it. We vowed to go the next morning for breakfast. Afterwards, we went to a really good pizza place (Tiny Tim’s) within walking distance of her apartment. And I got to see the University of Arkansas campus. We drove through and walked around. I was pretty impressed with how pretty it was. Although at that point, it didn’t surprise me b/c I’d seen how gorgeous Arkansas is. One notable thing is that the Razorback Football team’s stadium is ridiculous. Liz explained that there’s no other huge university, no pro teams of any sport, and nothing nearby, so it’s only natural that everyone freaks out about college football. I can’t in good conscience say “Go Razorbacks,” but as long as they’re not playing UNC, I guess I could cheer for them, but I'm not calling the pigs. That's for sure.

After campus and dinner, we went to a nearby bar w/a patio. Some of Liz’s friends happened to be there, so we hung out and I eventually got to meet her boyfriend. It was a good time and beautiful weather…as it had been the whole time. Then Liz and I went to this dive bar across the street—Maxine’s-- b/c she wanted me to have the true Fayetteville experience. It looked like a nightmare from the outside. It was just this brick building w/ a crappy sign and a pink light emanating from the door that had metal crisscrosses on it which led to stairs and down into the bar. It wasn't actually as creepy as it looked from the outside and it has a cool story. She told me that it was founded in the 50s of 60s, but had burnt down a few years before. Maxine was the owner and bartender and she had a certain stool which was the only thing to survive the fire. Apparently Maxine is no longer on earth, but her stool remains and it took several years for the town of Fayetteville to scour the country’s antique shops for the old memorabilia that bedecked it’s bar. We’re talking old Budweiser handing lamps and very 60s diner type stools. I still think it’s weird that Maxine’s stool was the only thing that survived. It looks worse for the wear, but I suppose you could sit on it. I didn’t dare. I feel unworthy.

After Max’s, we headed home and hung out for a bit longer and then went to sleep with her crazy cat (only a year old) careening throughout the room like a mad man. Also, I woke up at one point with her sitting on me and think I scared her to death. I don’t feel bad…the feeling was mutual.

Day 1

Knock knock. Nancy woke me up at 7 before she left for work. Good thing since I needed to load the car and head out by 8. Turned out that I didn’t leave town til 8:30 b/c of the requisite gas fill up and a necessary cup of coffee and a bagel to go from Open Eye for the last time til August.

The first part of the drive was pretty lame simply because I’ve driven from Chapel Hill to Hickory a million times. I’ve only been to Asheville a few times, but given my itinerary lunch in Asheville was not a particularly interesting stop. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoyed walking around down town and eating sushi and taking a break after 4 hours of driving. I read this local weekly newspaper about herbal living just to get a hint of what I might be facing in Berkeley. I’m lost. Maybe someone in Cali can explain it to me.

Headed out of Asheville after an hour and through the Appalachian mountains. Gorgeous drive. Absolutely amazing. They aren’t huge mountains, especially in comparison with what I’m up against in a few days, but they are certainly pretty. Anyone who’s driven the Blue Ridge Parkway must agree or they are not a real person. The drive from Asheville to Knoxville was pretty until I actually got to Knoxville. It may have still been pretty, but the terrible drivers detracted from all that. From Knoxville to Nashville, it seemed like no one could go the speed limit. I’m not an excessively fast driver, but I would appreciate at least doing the speed limit. So, obviously, my road rage reared its head.

I arrived at Greg and Mark’s house around 4:30, though only Greg was home. We promptly went to a bar called the Red Door. Whole pirate theme with a lot going on. I liked it a lot. I especially liked just sitting on the patio, drinking a beer after 8 hours of driving. Afterwards, we went to Broadway Street which is where all the crazy Nashville bars are. We ate at a brewery there which was great (Big River, I think, was the name) and Mark and his girlfriend, Amanda, met udinner, we went to a couple of bars. One was a bluegrass bar, with a live band of course, and the other was The Stage, which is apparently pretty famous. Being a Monday, they were fairly empty, but not dead. All in all it was a wonderful night and we ended the day around 10:30.